Unveiling WIANG KUM KAM
The Underground Empire
Amphoe Sarapi, Chiang Mai


THE ORIGINS OF WIANG KUM KAM

BUDDHIST TEMPLES
IN WIANG KUM KAM




The ancient city of Wiang Kum Kam was situated in the vast plains of the far north of the country, the largest area of flat land at the site of present-day Chiang Mai and Lamphun. It is believed to be the earliest historical settlement in the Chiang Mai area established by Mon settlers as a satellite town for the Haripunchai kingdom. Archaeological remains excavated at the site, such as the stone tablets with Mon inscriptions, pottery, earthenware moulds, Buddhist sculpture and architecture, suggest that there has been a long and continuous history of settlement in the area dating back to the 8th century Haripunchai era.

As travel by river was the only means of getting around the isolated mountainous terrain of the north up until the early 20th century, Wiang Kum Kam's strategic location on the bank of the Ping River served it well. For a time, in addition to being a political centre, Wiang Kum Kam also served as an important economic centre and was a thriving centre of trade. In its heyday, Kaad Kum Kam was a bustling market.

While its riverside location offers certain advantages, the low-lying area was prone to severe flooding during the seasonal rains. This prompted King Mangrai to embark on a search for a new site for the capital of his kingdom. In 1292, King Mangrai turned to his trusted confidantes, King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and King Ngam Muang of Phayao, seeking their assistance in the selection of a site for the establishment of a new Lanna capital.

Wiang Kum Kam's status as the Lanna capital was short-lived. By 1296, King Mangrai had choosen a site stretching from the foothills of Doi Suthep peak to the Ping River and declared Nopphaburi Srinakhon Ping Chiang Mai, the permanent capital of the Lanna kingdom. Chiang Mai has remained the Lanna heartland since the 8th century.

Following the establishment of Chiang Mai, Wiang Kum Kam continued to exist as a satellite town to the new Lanna capital. Judging by the number of temples that existed at the time (at least 10), Wiang Kum Kam remained a city of reasonable size.

King Mangrai continued to maintain his rule over Wiang Kum Kam and made regular visits back to the former capital. As a result, it was less vulnerable to subversive attempts and effectively served as a buffer state that protected Chiang Mai from the immediate threat of invasion as the King's forces were often despatched to Wiang Kum Kam to fend off enemies.

THE CREATION OF THE LANNA KINGDOM

According to the Northern Chronicles, Prince Mangrai, the son of Phra Chao Lao Meng, the ruler of the city of Hirannakhon Ngoen Yang, Yonnok Nakhon (in present-day Chiang Rai province) was born in 1239 AD (1781-82 according to the Buddhist era). His mother was Phra Nang Thep Kamkayay.

Prince Mangrai ascended to the throne at Yonok Nakhon at the age of 21 and began to pave the way for the establishment of a Lanna kingdom as a single political entity. He embarked on the conquest and consolidation of the fragmented independent principalities of the north. Having taken the neighbouring states of Muang Mob, Muang Rai, and Chiang Kham, he turned his attention to the principalities to the south.

In 1262, King Mangrai established Chiang Rai as the capital of the Lanna kingdom, and proceeded to take Chiang Khong on the Mekong in 1296, and Fang in the upper valley of the Kok River in approximately 1273.

While in Fang, King Mangrai came across merchants from Haripunchai which was at the time an important cultural and religious centre. Having learnt of its wealth and prosperity, King Mangrai set his sight on its conquest and devised a plan to destabilise its incumbent ruler. The acquisition of the Mon capital of Haripunchai in 1281 was an important milestone. A famed centre of culture and learning, Haripunchai influence took root in the region in profound ways, particularly its Buddhist traditions. Some 15 years later, many of the artisans from Haripunchai also contributed to the artistic and architectural splendour of Chiang Mai.

An astute and determined ruler, King Mangrai expanded his rule through a series of conquests and strategic alliances, and finally succeeded in his quest to form a kingdom united under one ruler - the Lanna kingdom, "land of a million rice fields".

In 1287, King Mangrai entered into a life-long peace treaty with his peers, King Ramkhamhaeng Maharaj of the Sukhothai Kingdom and King Ngam Muang of Phayao, with each ruler pledging not to encroach on each others' sovereign state. A sacred ritual was performed and King Mangrai, King Ramkhamhaeng and King Ngam Muang, became "blood brothers".

In 1288, King Mangrai relocated the Lanna capital from Chiang Rai to Wiang Kum Kam, a city deemed to be an ideal location as it was situated on the bank of the Ping River. (Up until the early 20th century, travel by river was the only means of transportation and communication in the isolated mountainous region of the north.)

In 1289, King Mangrai concluded a peace treaty with the King of Pegu who also offered his daughter who was later wed to King Mangrai.

In 1290, King Mangrai set out to conquer Ava. The ruler of Ava surrendered peacefully and as part of the peace pact forged, 500 families of artisans and craftsmen, including goldsmiths, silversmiths and coppersmiths, were relocated to Wiang Kum Kam, and other northern principalities under his rule.

In 1292, King Mangrai enlisted the assistance of his trusted confidantes, King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and King Ngam Muang of Phayao, in the selection of an appropriate site for a new Lanna capital and in the drawing up of city plans.

In 1296, King Mangrai decided on a fertile plain stretching from the foothills of Doi Suthep peak to the bank of the Ping River and declared Nopphaburi Srinakhon Ping Chiang Mai, the permanent capital of the Lanna kingdom. Chiang Mai has remained the Lanna heartland since this time.

According to the Chiang Mai Chronicles, King Mangrai died of natural causes in 1317 AD (1860 BE), at the age of 80.

WAT KANTHOM (WAT CHANG KHAM)TEMPLE:
AN IMPORTANT ANCESTRAL SITE

Upon King Mangrai's return from a Buddhist sermon delivered by His Holiness Phra Mahakassapa, leader of a delegation of Buddhist monks who had travelled from Sri Lanka, he commissioned the construction of five Buddha images. He then vowed that if he were victorious in his efforts to conquer the Kingdom of Hongsawadi, he would undertake the construction of a Viharn (main hall or central sanctuary) of Wat Kanthom Temple, now known as Wat Chang Kham Temple.

With news of the approach of King Mangrai's army, the King of Hongsawadi surrendered and offered a truce.


Upon his return to Wiang Kum Kam, King Mangrai embarked on the construction of the Viharn as pledged.

Kan Thom, a skilled carpenter who had long been in His Majesty's service and appointed governor of Muang Roi (Chiang Saen), was asked by royal command to build the Viharn to house the five Buddha images. Hence, its name - Viharn Kanthom.

Subsequently in 1290, following the conquest of Ava, King Mangrai was presented with the holy relics of Lord Buddha by a delegation of Buddhist monks visiting from Sri Lanka, King Mangrai built a chedi or stupa to house one of the holy relics which came to be known as "Phra Chedi Wat Chang Kham". The remaining relic was placed in a Buddha image.

The monks also presented the king with a cutting from a sacred "Bho" (banyan) tree which King Mangrai planted in the temple grounds, and which still exists today.

BUDDHIST INFLUENCE IN THE HARIPUNCHAI & LANNA KINGDOM

The history of the northern kingdom of Lanna begins with the northward migration of Mon settlers from their former home in the Chao Phraya valley that included the provinces of Nakhon Pathom, U-Thong, and Lopburi, to the isolated but fertile valleys of the main rivers of the north: the Ping, Wang, Yom and Nan rivers, bringing with them Dvaravati culture, and their devotion to Buddhist teachings.

As the valley of the Ping River widens into a fertile plain in its middle reaches around the provinces of Chiang Mai and Lamphun, the Ping River valley was the most important. Here, at a site that is present-day Lamphun, the Mons established an independent kingdom known as Haripunchai, the capital of which became an important cultural and religious centre that influenced the region in profound ways. A Mon ruler of Lopburi is said to have sent his daughter, Princess Chamathewi to rule as queen.

Relative to the Siamese kings of the Central Plains who had embraced the concept of the "Divine Kings" to strengthen their rule by divine association, the ancient Lanna communities consisted of strictly abiding Dheravada Buddhists.

King Mangrai evidently had great respect for Haripunchai culture. He embraced and helped to perpetuate the observance of Buddhist traditions and customs. In spite of the fall of Haripunchai, many of the cultural traditions of the Haripunchai kingdom were assimilated into the evolving Lanna culture that took hold in the new capital of Wiang Kum Kam, established in 1288.

GETTING TO WIANG KUM KAM
The recently excavated ruins of Wiang Kum Kam, located 5km south of the city of Chiang Mai, can be accessed by Route 106 (the Chiang Mai - Lamphun road) near the Ping River.

MAP OF WIANG KUM KAM HISTORICAL PARK
Please click to view

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