THE MEKONG RIVER:
First Sunrise in Thailand's Northeast

Sunrise over the Mekong River is one of the great spectacles of Thailand’s rarely visited northeastern region. As the first rays of light stream over the rugged hills near Khong Chiam, the brooding waters of the Mae Nam Khong – literally mother of all waters – take on new life. Flotillas of boats scurry up and down this slumbering waterway that separates Thailand from Laos. A solitary fisherman casts his net into the river now tinged with reflections from the sun.

Born high in remote mountains that border Tibet, the Mekong is Asia’s longest river, plunging down through the hills and lush plains of Southwest China and Burma before entering Thailand near the town of Chiang Saen. By the time it reaches the northeastern region, the river is broad and for the most part gentle, curving lazily through rice fields, tobacco and vegetable plantations, lifeblood of the people who live along its banks.

Situated in Ubon Ratchathani province, the easternmost province in Thailand, Khong Chiam’s charms mingle easily with another scenic masterpiece. For this is the place where the Mun River flows into the Mekong creating an extraordinary sight that is known as the Mae Nam Song Si - meaning ‘two-coloured river’. Best viewed from in front of the Khong Chiam temple or by boat near Ban Woen Buek, the waters of the muddy Mekong and the clearer Mun merge amidst a striking backdrop of lush vegetation framed by distant mountains.

The river landscape is just one of the many reasons for visiting Ubon Ratchathani province, often known as the gateway to the Mekong. In Pha Taem, 98 kms east of the provincial capital, a signposted trail leads high up into the sandstone hills offering panoramic views of the sparsely forested countryside below. Painted on to these precipitous cliffs with pigment made from animal blood, vegetable gum and local soil are cave paintings dating back at least 2,000 years. The paintings of human figures, elephants, fish and animal traps are evidence of a civilisation that flourished in this region of Thailand in pre-historic times.

In the nearby Kaeng Tana National Park, man-made works of art give way to natural wonders. Torrential cataracts and sleepy backwaters are scattered over the area together with waterfalls and caves. It is no surprise that Kaeng Tana is becoming an increasingly popular destination for cyclists.

The northeastern region covers almost a third of Thailand and is called I-san. Desiccated and flooded by turns, it is the least known and the least explored region in the kingdom. But for connoisseurs of wide open space, ancient Khmer ruins and remote farming communities, it offers some of the best that Thailand has to offer along with the hottest food and the friendliest inhabitants. Most of all it offers the feel of being far away from the modern world.

North of Ubon Ratchathani, past the spectacular mushroom shaped rock formations of Phophatep National Park, is one of the most popular religious sites of I-san: the Laotian style chedi of Wat That Phanom. Bedecked with 10 kg of gold and surrounded by cloisters filled with Buddha images, it has long been revered by the local people who come here to make offerings of jasmine flowers and joss sticks. In 1975, after days of torrential rain the shrine collapsed, but has since been rebuilt in all its glory.

The best time to explore the towns and villages along the Mekong is during the months from November to February when the weather is cool and the river level is still high. By May, giant sandbanks emerge from the water as the parched river awaits the arrival of the monsoon rains.

According to traditional folklore, the river is a naga or mythological serpent and that every year, before the rains arrive, somebody must drown in the Mekong as a sacrifice. The local people believe that if the river does not claim a victim, the rains will not come and that the crops will die.

In the provincial capital Nakhon Phanom, a fast-growing trading hub pleasantly situated on the bank of the Mekong, ferry boats criss cross the river to the town of Tha Khaek on the Laotian side of the border, carrying trucks piled high with consumer goods and soap powder. A popular side trip is to the silk weaving community of Renu Nakhon, especially well known for its mudmee or ikat, a patterned silk made from dyed threads.

Near the northern tip of I-san, the Mekong curves to the west, passing through Nong Khai, a major gateway to Laos. The town has some delightful Sino-Franco architecture and fine temples, including the bizarre but eclectic Wat Khaek. The biggest attraction however lies further west towards Chiang Khan. As the road snakes through the verdant hills there are spectacular views of the Mekong below. Along this beautiful stretch, there are no big towns, just small backwater villages like Sang Khom and Pak Chom sprawled along the banks of this great and majestic river.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR BEN DAVIES Ben Davies is a photographer and travel writer who has spent more than ten years exploring some of the most remote corners of Thailand and Southeast Asia. He wrote and photographed the beautifully illustrated book entitled ‘Isaan – Forgotten Provinces of Thailand’ which is available from Asia Books outlets. He has also produced books on Laos and the Philippines. He is a member of AsiaWorks Photography (asiaworksphotos.com),the leading reference for Asian images online.   Copyright Ben Davies/asiaWorksphotos.com Please refrain from the use or publication of Ben Davies' images without prior consent from AsiaWorks Photography. For details regarding the use of images by Ben Davies, please contact sales@asiaworksphotos.com