I-SAN IN THE GREEN SEASON

Towards the end of May and early June, the Southeast monsoon transforms parched land into luxuriant green fields once more. The rain nurtures back to life rhythms temporarily interrupted by the drought. Visit I-san, the northeastern region of the Thai kingdom, during the ‘green season’ and you’ll see this dramatic transition evolve before your eyes.

A sea of dazzling green rice saplings extends out onto the horizon. Sparrows hop from shoot to shoot seeking prey. The saffron robes of Buddhist monks add a dash of colour to the morning landscape. Farmers head for the paddy fields with water-buffalo in tow. Fish dart about in brooks and streams as the channel deepens into rivers. The summer monsoons replenish the Mekong River which rapidly swells in volume and velocity.

Travel along the river at this time of the year and you’ll see I-san at its liveliest. Witness the arduous, back-breaking process of rice cultivation as villagers toil in the rice fields, knee-deep in mud and water planting each sapling by hand, in neat, orderly rows, from dawn until dusk. Following the harvest, it is time to enjoy life; various religious celebrations and folk festivals are staged.

As soon as the rice-planting season ends, the villagers of Ban Na Kha in Udon Thani draw on their remarkable artistic skills, handed down through generations, and earn supplementary income by weaving ‘Mee Khid’ – a traditional textile for which Ban Na Kha is noted. The handwoven cotton cloth is decorated with ornate patterns consisting of delicate blue and white lines, dainty floral designs or stylised animal motifs and geometrical shapes, and is often used for making ornamental pillows and costumes.

Udon Thani has been a significant cultural centre of I-san since ancient times. The Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, 67 km from Mueang district, takes you back to a period centuries ago when Buddhist influences first began to shape the culture and traditions of the I-San Plateau.

I-san forefathers carved replicas of the Lord Buddha’s footprint in sandstone which were then consecrated for religious ritual and worship. The Phra Buddha Bat Bua Bok replica of the Lord Buddha’s footprint measures 1.93 metres long and 60 centimetres deep. The site of a second footprint, south of Phra Buddha Bat Bua Bok, is known to local people as Phra Buddha Bat Lang Tao, or the ‘tortoise shell’ Buddha footprint. The footprint, adorned with a stylised lotus motif in the mid-section, is found next to a tortoise-shell shaped rock. The vast number of sandstone inscriptions and carvings found in the area indicates that the Buddhist faith took hold and prospered in I-San. Also the site of a prehistoric settlement, numerous pre-historical cave-paintings are found throughout this northeastern historical park.

En route route from Udon Thani to Nakhon Phanom, the village of Ban Tha Rua in Nawah District of Nakhon Phanom Province makes for another interesting stop. Here, witness villagers hand-crafting folk music instruments such as a guitar-like instrument called the ‘pin’ in the local dialect, an I-san-style wind instrument called ‘khaen’ and a wooden xylophone known as the ‘ponglang’. Womenfolk engage in textile weaving. As one strolls through the community watching the men and women folk attend to their folk craft, up-tempo folk music fills the air. Famous, beautiful hand-woven silks and cotton fabrics make popular souvenirs and gift items to take home with you.

While travelling through the area, a visit to the Phu Thai village in Renu Nakhon District offers insights into various folk traditions. Although the Phu Thai ethnic group migrated from Kham Muan in Lao a long while ago, today, their inherited tradition remains well preserved. For example, the unique traditional folk dance of the Phu Tai people is still being performed. At one time, Phu Tai dances were almost forgotten; this ancient art has since been carefully documented and revived and is being passed on to the next generation. The Phu Tai continue to practice the time-honoured tradition of welcoming guests by performing a Bai See Su Khwan blessing ceremony. Village elders gather to perform a sacred ritual, graciously offering their blessings to visitors. Celebrations then begin.

In honour of their guests, the village hosts a traditional I-San set dinner called the ‘Pa Lang’. Spicy Isan-style cuisine is served along with ‘U’ – a fermented rice wine and guests are entertained with song and dance.

From Renu Nakhon, a cruise along the mighty Mekong River to Nakhon Phanom unveils more of I-San’s mythical landscape and culture. On the Thai side, at intervals, buildings break through the lush canopy of riverside plantations. On the opposite bank, Lao remains a sanctuary of calm characterised by lush forests. In Nakhon Phanom, the Phra That Phanom stupa, the fountain of faith of both Thai and Laotian in the region, houses the relics of the Lord Buddha. Dating back to 535 B.C., the stupa is decorated with 200 pieces of diamond and 16 golden umbrellas grace its spire.

Travel onwards along the Mekong to the city of Mukdaharn, noted for its beautiful small temples – once again reflecting the people’s faith in Buddhism. Residents of I-san refer to the ubosoth, the Thai word for a prayer hall or chapel, as ‘sim’. The sim in the Northeast is smaller than those of the central region. Some are only 3 metres by 4 metres. The sim of Wat Bo Sri, a temple built in 1916 and located in Wan Yai district, features distinctive Laotian windows based on the Lan Chang architectural style; murals depict the last life of the Lord Buddha. At Wat Mano Phirom temple, a short distance away, elaborate wood carvings depict mythical serpents or Naga guarding the main entrance to the ‘sim’.

Less than 20 kilometres from Mukdaharn, the sight of intriguing rocky outcrops of Phu Pha Thoeb of Mukdaharn National Park fires the imagination. Massive slabs of rock balanced on pedestals; some take on the appearance of giant mushrooms; others are in the shape of huts, lions, crocodiles, and human footprints. Phu Pha Thoeb is essentially a random grouping of rocky outcrops sculpted into bizarre forms by the forces of nature over the centuries. Exposure to harsh climatic extremes in alternating wet-and–dry cycles, cause layers of rock, eroded by water and sand-blasted by the wind, to shatter and crumble. Rainwater seeps through the porous sandstone and trickles down into rocky crevices. The moisture is retained and becomes a natural flowerbed for some forms of plant life.

By the end of rainy season, during October through November, flowering plants sprout from the rocky crevices, a sea of colourful wild flowers adorns the rocky terrace. Muchalin Terrace - Phu Pha Thoeb’s famous field of flowers is five kilometres from the park.

For more cliff-face floral splendour, the rocky plateau, a short distance from the Soy Sawan Waterfall in Ubon Ratchathani, will be dotted with bright yellow, red, and violet colours of millions of tiny flowers in full bloom.

Soy Sawan Waterfall is part of Pha Taem National Park. Archaeological evidence suggests that the site dates back some 4,000 years ago. Over 300 paintings along the 180-metre cliff, include depictions of giant catfish, elephants, fishing tools and humans performing rites. These images reflect the close affinity local settlers had with the Mekong River.

If October is too many months away to enjoy the floral splendour, the Candle Festival signals the approach of the Buddhist Lent. In Ubon Ratchathani province, this is an extraordinary festival. To enable monks and novices to study Buddhist scriptures late into the night, villagers present offerings of giant candles. Over time, the sculpting of Buddhist Lent candles as an expression of religious devotion has evolved into an art-form, portraying elaborate motifs and ornate designs. It is well-worth arriving in Ubon Ratchathani a few days prior to the festival to witness the candles being sculpted. Wat Burapha, Wat Nong Bua, Wat Sawang Arom, and Wat Thung Si Muang are among the best places to visit. On the actual day of Khao Phansa, a procession of floats with intricately-carved candles are paraded through the town and around Thung Si Muang Park in a show of faith.

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Contrary to popular belief, I-San is at its most vibrant in the ‘green season’.

JULY 31 – AUGUST 1, 2004
TIMELESS TIME ELEGANCE:
THE CANDLE FESTIVAL IN UBON RATCHATHANI,
THE GLORIOUS CITY OF ART
Thung Si Mueang, Ubon Ratchathani
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All photos © Tourism Authority of Thailand