E-MAGAZINE -- NEW YEAR BEACH HOLIDAYS

NEW YEAR BEACH HOLIDAYS
Chumphon & Koh Tao | Koh Chang | Samui | Koh Pangan | Koh Samet | Trang

For family folks, from Asia or the West, two of the other most enduring destinations are Pattaya and Hua Hin. The former has an abundance of attractions fit for the whole family, whereas the latter is more serene and regal.

For those families who want more togetherness and tranquility on holiday, the newest wave in five-star accommodation is the pool villa; the name is derived from the fact that each villa has its own private pool.

To soak up some local culture along with some sunshine, try Cha-am, Koh Chang, Rayong, Trat and Koh Samet, which are as popular with Thais as with foreigners.

CHUMPHON

"If you blink, you miss it." That is the common opinion of car drivers who head south along Highway 4 from Bangkok and pass Chumphon at the 485 km marker on the east coast of Thailand.

While technically a gateway where dialect, food and culture assume southern features, Chumphon town is best known for its lively fishing industry, the strong smell of the morning catch, and the ferries that depart daily to Koh Tao, an island famed for its diving.

Chumphon literally means meeting point - a crossroads of culture and communication. Here Highway 4 from Bangkok splits, heading south as Highway 41 skirting the coastline to Surat Thani, or turning westward, dissecting emerald green hills to neighbouring Ranong province and the Andaman Sea coast.

Photos © Chumpon Cabana

Beyond the town, the province's 220-kilometre-coastline abounds with unspoilt beaches and various coral-fringed islands lying just offshore. An underwater ridge rises off the coast of Chumphon, creating a natural barrier. South of this ridge, that extends across the Gulf of Thailand, pristine coral reefs abound, while to the north freshwater run-off contained in the gulf basin inhibits coral growth. In a manner, the ridge makes Chumphon a geographical gateway for diving. Spectacular coral reefs have been identified at many of the 40 limestone islands that comprise the Mu Koh Chumphon Marine National Park, a 15 kilometre-boat trip from the provincial town.

Hat Thung Wua Laen, a bay set against a backdrop of forested hills, is the province's most popular beach, a 16-kilometre-drive from town. Here scuba divers join boat trips organised by Chumphon Cabana Resort to the archipelago. Or they can dive at the southern end of the bay itself, just offshore at the foot of the Probaeh headland. The annual Chumphon Marine Festival, held at this bay in late March or early April, features a windsurfing competition and a full-length marathon.

Sai Ree beach
Photo © Tourism Authority
of Thailand

Chumphon province is credited with at least six beaches easily accessed from Highway 41. Sai Ree beach, 20 kilometres south of town is lined with casuarina trees that cast a welcome shade over an assortment of 'somtam' stalls and outdoor seafood restaurants. Just 1 kilometre offshore is the tiny islet of Ma Prao or coconut island, which acts as a natural anchor for a spectacular coral reef.

Inland roads leading off Highway 41 weave through the Chumphon hills to waterfalls and caves. Possibly the most impressive are the eight caves at Rap Ro, just 15 kilometres north of town, while to the south, 19 kilometres from Phato on Highway 4006, Hew Loem Waterfall has two impressive cascades. Between November and April a two-hour rafting trip can be booked starting from the base of the falls downstream on the Bok Rai River.

Highway 4 cuts a path west from Chumphon across the narrow neck of the Isthmus of Kra to the Ban Thapli township in Ranong province. From here the Kra Buri River flows into an estuary that separates Thailand's western flank from Myanmar. A cement map at Ban Thapli reminds travellers that this is the point where civil engineers dream of a mega- canal project to link two oceans.

KOH TAO

Photos © TAT

For aquanauts keen on experiencing the rapture of the deep, dive sites around Koh Tao are sunken treasures. Coral reefs glitter with the iridescence of soft coral, the red and orange of Gorgonian sea fans, and purple anemones. Marine creatures are no less colourful, from clownfish to schools of giant barracuda, and that leviathan among fish: the whale shark. Some spots in the Gulf of Thailand, such as the Chumpon and Southwest Pinnacles, may be reserved for seasoned underwater explorers, but Tao also teems with rookie divers taking that first plunge.

NEWCOMERS

KOH CHANG

Photo © TAT

After Phuket, Koh Chang is Thailand’s second largest island. Thanks to a major push-start by the national government, dozens of infrastructure projects have paved the way for more convenient travel. But the island’s rugged interior is still in touch with its prehistoric roots.

Koh Chang’s rising status as a beachfront hideaway has as much to do with the airport recently built in Trat province as it does with the fact that more than 70 percent of the interior is untouched rainforest. The Than Ma Yo Waterfall (actually three separate cascades) is one of the most photogenic spots. You can also ride a lumbering elephant into the primeval jungle, populated with wild boars, or let the breeze blow back your hair on a daytrip to some of the 47 islands in this archipelago. The more opulent bungalows are at White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Kaew); down at the other tip of the island, there is a boisterous backpacker community at Lonely Beach, where you can stay in a tree-house.

SAMUI

Photo © TAT

Samui is still running second in the Thai tourism sweepstakes. Its two most dazzling beaches, Chaweng and Lamai, have all the comforts, fast-food franchises, nightclubs and theme pubs of any big city, but a growing number of visitors are coming for ‘healthy holidays’. These entail classes in yoga and meditation, spa treatments, Thai-style massages, and detoxification. For urbanites with high-pressure jobs and frazzled nerves, Samui is an idyllic place to unwind.

ACTION-ADVENTURE BEACHES

Photos © Tourism Authority of Thailand

Along the Samui and Samet waterfronts, thrill-seekers can go para-sailing, banana-boating, or join the jet-ski set. Inland, the bigger isles and beach resorts like Pattaya have everything from go-karts to shooting ranges and bungee jumps. Trekking through the rainforest is also a mainstay for visitors to Koh Chang. Now vacationing daredevils can add two new thrills to their Samui itinerary: kite-boarding, and the so-called ‘Canopy Adventure’, where neo-Tarzans glide over the treetops while attached to a cable (similar to those paratroopers use to practice sky-diving) with a hornbill’s-eye-view of the jungle.

BEACHES WITH NIGHTLIFE

Photo © TAT

To cap off a day spent soaking up the sun, or in hot pursuit of exhilaration, there is no shortage of entertainment options, from the sizzling dance floors of Samui’s live blues and salsa, and its assortment of English-style pubs. Or just enjoy the razzle-dazzle of shopping, dining and drinking around Phuket’s Patong Beach.

For older travellers, the larger hotels usually have their own ritzy nightclubs and lounges, where you can lend an ear to the chart-topping tunes of yesteryear. And karaoke clubs with a wide selection of songs in both Thai and English are also a big hit with visitors and locals alike.

Many bungalow complexes have their own al fresco beach bars. Along the shorelines of Samet, the bigger venues have mats and candle-lit tables laid out, and fire-juggling shows to wow their clientele.

KOH PANGAN

Photo © TAT

Even more esoteric treatments, from New Age to the wisdom of old sages, and martial arts, are available on the neighbouring island of Koh Phangan. Still the favorite haunt of budget travellers bound for a Thai beach, Phangan’s main claim to fame is the Full Moon Party. Over the Christmas and New Year season, expect up to 20,000 revellers to descend on Had Rin Beach for a hard day’s night of dancing and carousing. Many big-name DJs also attend to put their own special spins on dance-music grooves.

POPULAR WITH LOCALS: SHORT DRIVE + DELICIOUS LOCAL FARE

Beach holidays can offer as much cultural immersion as relaxation. With their tradition-soaked fishing villages and seafood staples, which lure busloads of locals, this is especially true of Cha-am, Pran Buri in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, Koh Samet island, Rayong and Trat on the Eastern Seaboard of Thailand.

KOH SAMET

Photo © TAT

Only 223 kilometres, and a 40-minute ferry ride from the capital, is Koh Samet, the nearest island getaway for city-weary Bangkokians. Which means there’s a high tide of humans washing up here most weekends – equal parts Thai and foreign – while during the week the beaches empty out so you can feel like more of a castaway on Survivor, with better access to cable TV.

No matter which island or coast visitors head for, they can be assured that there is fun fare for the whole family, and a highly developed infrastructure in place to ensure that all you have to worry about is your suntan and your waistline.

TRANG
Note: Although the town of Trang is on the Andaman coast, in spite of the recent tsunami, many places are still safe with around 600 rooms available in a number of hotels. -- Source: Tourism Authority of Thailand

Trang province, some 828 kilometres south of Bangkok, has a long coastline serrated with secluded bays and inlets. From here, you can venture forth to the tiny and coral-ringed Koh Ngai, and Koh Muk, famous for its ‘Emerald Cave’, or the largest island of the bunch, Koh Libong, which has three Thai-Muslim fishing villages and plenty of sea grass where sea cows come to graze.

Further south on the Andaman Sea coast, Trang is still in the 'unseen' category awaiting discovery, although the national airline has worked hard to put the destination on the map through its annual underwater wedding ceremony for passionate scuba divers.

A protected coastline stretching almost 120 kilometres, and including as many as 47 offshore islands, is partly responsible for Trang's hesitant moves in tourism. In addition, Hat Chao Mai National Park, covering 231 square kilometres, is the custodian of more than 20 kilometres of prime Andaman Sea beaches and nine offshore islands, all just 47 kilometres from Trang town. There are just a handful of bungalow resorts on these national park islands. Muk and Kradan muster between them less than 120 rooms in six resorts, stark contrast with the commercial development witnessed at Phuket, Krabi and Lanta Island.

Trang town itself is still relatively sleepy, with just seven hotels that cater to overseas travellers, but has the distinction of having the only railway station on the Andaman coast with a twice-daily train service from Bangkok, a distance of 828 kilometres. An alternative to the overnight train marathon is a one-hour flight on Thai Airways' domestic service.

Trang's adhering appeal is its natural unspoilt coastal environment: pristine islands, clear waters and a backdrop of mountains covered in lush vegetation, providing trekking opportunities to numerous caves and waterfalls. Trang is also an emerging scuba diving destination with trips to spectacular underwater edifices such as Hin Muang and Hin Daeng. Both are considered prime dive sites. These two gigantic underwater pinnacles, standing side by side, challenge divers to explore the habitat of exotic fish including the whale shark and manta ray.

Trips to the popular national park islands of Libong, Muk and Kradan start with a boat transfer from Kantang pier in the Trang River estuary, approximately 40 kilometres southwest of the provincial town. An alternative route is to take the 15-minute boat transfer to Libong from the village on Hat Chao Mai beach. Park headquarters are located at the northern end of the beach known as Hat Chang Lang. Foreigners pay a 200 baht daily fee to visit the park's beaches and islands.

Trang's festivals are most decidedly centred around food. In late September, or early October, local residents participate in the annual vegetarian festival with an enthusiasm shared only by Phuket residents. Also in September, a festival, with opposing sentiments, focuses on the delights of Roast Pork, crispy cooked and dipped in spicy sauces. Cakes are the theme of a festival in August organised by the town's chamber of commerce to reflect the versatility of Trang's bakers. Then in November, not to be outdone by the bakers, sea mussel vendors turn out for the Hoi Ta Phao Festival held at Hat Pakmeng beach.

Trang's maritime heritage features romance in the form of the annual Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony, held 13 to 15 February to coincide with Valentine's Day, while 'Trang Season of Love' runs through to May this year.

Finally, traditional sailors gather at Hat Chao Mai beach for the annual sailboat regatta in May. Unlike regattas elsewhere there are strict rules on the boat class. Race rules ban boats built from modern materials, fibre or carbon composites. Participants proudly sail their work-a-day fishing boats powered simply by a square or triangle sail dyed in time-honoured fashion from juices extracted from a native tree.

Chumphon and Trang share similar attributes. They are largely unseen and unknown to international travellers. Communities thrive off agriculture and the sea rather than tourism, so hospitality is not their core business. Yet these 'unseen' destinations represent the forgotten lanes - the ones we should promise to follow on our next trip to discover new facets of the Thailand experience.

Contact information:

CHUMPHON
CHUMPHON CABANA RESORT AND DIVING CENTRE
Winner of the Thailand Tourism Award 2002
Award of Outstanding Performance for "Diving Tour Programme"

Web sites
www.chumphondiving.com
www.cabana.co.th
www.chumphoncabana.com

E-mail: info@cabana.co.th

Bangkok Reservation and Sales Office
Tel: +66 (0) 2427-1825
Fax: +66 (0) 2427-0122
TRANG
AMARI TRANG BEACH RESORT -
The resort was unaffected by the recent tsunami and is operating normally.
Web site: www.amari.com
E-mail: trang@amari.com
Tel: +66 (0) 7527 4236 - 39
Fax: +66 (0) 7527 4240

TAT OFFICES

TAT SOUTHERN REGIONAL OFFICE 2
For Trang
Tel: +66 (75) 346 515 to 7
Fax: +66 (75) 346 517
E-mail: tatnksri@tat.or.th

TAT SOUTHERN REGIONAL OFFICE 5
For Chumphon
Tel: +66 (77) 288 818 to 9
Fax: +66 (77) 282 828
E-mail: tatsurat@samart.co.th

For more hotel information, please visit

For Chumphon
http://www.thaihotels.org/thaihotels/provinces/chumphon.htm

For Trang
http://www.thaihotels.org/thaihotels/provinces/trang.htm

www.thailandhotelnet.com