Whoever built the Mae Klong railway had a superb sense of whimsy. The tiny railway line—already one of the shortest in Thailand—is sliced in half by a very large river. For adventurers, it presents a day trip like no other.

The starting point is Thonburi's little-known Wong Wian Yai railway station. As the funky little train leaves the station, it trundles past tiny stations, crosses canals and passes the beautiful Chinese-motif monastery, Wat Raja Oros, on the right. Eventually, it emerges into lush countryside, and rolls past small villages, buffaloes grazing pastures, fishermen and farmers — the traditional bucolic scene which typifies rural Thailand.

This first portion of the journey ends when the train runs out of track at the edge of the Ta Chin River. Exit the station train, turn right (the same direction the train is pointed), and walk a short distance to the ferry landing which crosses the river to a new railway station, Ban Laem.

The section from Ban Laem to Maeklong (also known as Samut Songkram) is a charming journey through a quiet backwater. Unlike Thailand's other trains, designed for speed and efficiency, this train's modest interior matches its leisurely pace. The passengers are rural with the friendliness such settings imply. From their easy conversations, it is clear that they travel this route daily, taking fish and produce from their farms to the markets in Thonburi. At this hour, many are on their homeward journey.

Photos © Steve Van Beek

Beyond Ban Nakhok, look for the windmills. This has long been a salt-producing area, and wind sails still revolve quietly above the flats. Traditionally, ocean water was drawn into the drying pans with wind power, using windmills made with bamboo frame and canvas vanes. Dependence on nature's willingness to blow on cue was deemed unreliable, and many windmills have been replaced by diesel-powered pumps. Most of the year, the windmill sails are furled but they billow during the hot season.

Travellers eager to experience more of the countryside, can disembark a few stations short of Maeklong and walk down the tracks into town.

Mae Klong (Samut Songkram) is another fishing town. For the last few metres to the station, the rails run through a market. As the train approaches, watch how the previously hidden tracks appear as vendors rush with poles to raise awnings from the train's path, lowering them once it has passed.

Proceed from the station to two simple riverside restaurants housed in concrete pavilions. There you can arrange a large long-tailed boat for the ninety-minute journey up the Mae Klong to Ratchaburi, bargaining a price of between 800 and 1,000 baht. You may want to linger in the fish market when the catches are unloaded. Mae Klong is a town of deep sea trawlers — you will see them on the waterfront and along the banks on the upriver journey.

Photos © Steve Van Beek

The Mae Klong River is better known by the name of its two upper branches, the Kwai Yai and Kwai Noi (or River Kwai). The Mae Klong boat winds through a narrow canal past stilt houses, before entering the main river. Soon you are enveloped by beautiful jungle and many impressive houses including one that seems to have been imported from Borneo.

Ratchaburi, the final stop, is famed for its fine clay, the prime ingredient in a thriving ceramics industry. Craftsmen fashion large Shanghainese water jars distinguished by their dull brown glaze and flowers or dragons stencilled in mustard yellow. These were commonly used for dipping showers. At one time, the jars were piled by the hundreds on to barges and towed up the canals for sale in Bangkok. One can occasionally still see a barge being loaded along the quay.

But Ratchaburi potters have branched out these days, producing ceramics of startling beauty. To view a representative sampling, hire a tuk-tuk from the far side of the market situated at the head of the long-tailed boat pier. Tell the driver you want to go to Ratanakosin or Siang Thai factories and ask him to wait for half an hour while you browse. The cost for the round-trip and the wait is 100 to 200 baht. A wander through the workrooms is like strolling into a medieval studio.

Ratchaburi's other attraction is Wat Si Ratana Mahathat founded during the Dvaravati period (6^th to 11^th century AD). A tall chedi, erected by a monastery benefactor, is flanked by two smaller chedis that locals claim are memorials to his wife and his mistress. Slyly, townspeople will point out that the mistress’s chedi leans closer to the central spire than that of the wife.

To extend the trip by a day, catch the southbound train from Ratchaburi to Phetchaburi. After a night in one of the town’s numerous hotels, spend the next morning exploring Khao Wang, King Mongkut's charming hilltop palace, reached by a pathway fringed by frangipani trees. It can also be reached by cable car from a station just off Highway Four that bypasses the town. King Mongkut used this palace as his country retreat and built an observatory to pursue his interest in astronomy. It is a great place for kids to wander among the buildings and along the paths, playing out their fantasies. At the southern foot of Khao Wang is another palace, Wang Bang Phung, which has been restored as an interesting museum.

Phetchaburi’s calm is deceptive as there is lots going on. Dominating the skyline in the center of town is Wat Mahathat whose interior walls are covered by lovely frescoes. It’s Angkor-style prang (central spire) recalls the southwestern reach of Angkor Wat.

Even more emblematic of the ancient Khmer empire is Wat Kamphaeng Laeng, a monument dating from the 13^th century. It is located between the market and the railway tracks. Although its laterite bricks are bare of most of their original decoration, traces of stucco ornamentation remain.

Tham Khao Luang Photo © Steve Van Beek

Tham Khao Luang cave lies just north of Phetchaburi. Its open ceiling admits rays of sunshine which illuminate Buddha images cast in a variety of styles — a perfect photo opportunity on a sunny day.

There may even be time to make the 16-kilometre journey to Hat Chao Samran, a favourite beach for residents in the area for a quick swim and some seafood.

Then, board the train for Bangkok to complete the journey.

Note: The two key destinations on this trip have different names, and maps aren't consistent in noting one or the other. Mahachai is also called Samut Sakhon and lies on the banks of the Ta Chin River. Samut Songkhram, the terminus for the second train is also called Mae Klong, the name of the river on which it sits.

DIRECTIONS

Thonburi's Wong Wian Yai railway station (Satanii Rot Fai Wong Wian Yai) is almost hidden in a maze of a market on Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Road, about halfway between Wong Wian Yai (‘Big Roundabout’) and the turn to the Taksin Bridge crossing the Chao Phraya into Bangkok.

Continue the trip by exiting the station, turning right (the same direction the train is pointed), and walking a short distance to the ferry landings. There are several, and the one for this trip is outside the main terminal on the left. The ferry (five baht) travels upriver to a new train terminal at Ban Laem on the opposite bank.

Proceed from the station to two simple riverside restaurants in concrete pavilions. There you can bargain a large long-tailed boat for the ninety-minute journey up the Mae Klong to Ratchaburi for from 800 to 1,000 baht.

A Sprinter train (257 baht) leaves at 5:22 pm and arrives at Hualampong at 8:00 pm

About The Author
Steve Van Beek

Steve Van Beek's special intimacy with water comes in large part because for 11 of his 30 years in Thailand, he lived in a wooden Thai house set on stilts in the Chao Phraya River. He has also paddled a small boat down all of the Chao Phraya's four tributaries; his "The Chao Phya, River in Transition" which was published by Oxford University Press is considered the definitive work on the river and water culture in Thailand. His most recent book, "Slithering South" is an anecdotal chronicle of his first journey. The author of 21 books and 42 documentary films on a variety of Asian cultural topics, he is a Fellow of the Explorers Club in New York, elected in recognition of his solo river expeditions in China and Tibet.