GUIDE TO THE ROYAL BARGES
THE ROYAL STATE BARGES & THE ROYAL "KATHIN" CEREMONY
Certain temples or monasteries are designated "Royal Wat" ie. Royal temples that are visited by H.M. The King personally, and/or other members of the Royal Family. The Royal Barge Procession marks the annual visit of H.M. The King and Members of the Royal Family to a "Royal Wat" to make offerings of yellow 'kathin' robes, food and other necessities, to the monks.

This annual pilgrimage which usually take place during the season of the full moon in October and November, is known as "Tawt kat'in", or the Royal Kathin, a religious ceremony with sacred rituals performed in accordance with ancient customs. Descriptions of Royal Kathins by both land and water have been described as far back as the Ayutthaya period.

Excerpts from "Royal Barges"
Courtesy of the Public Relations Department of The Royal Government Of Thailand

The book "Royal Barges" was published by the Government Public Relations Department, Office of the Prime Minister to mark the 50^th Anniversary of His Majesty's Accession to the Throne.

In the Bangkok Calendar of 1863 (during the 4^th reign), Dr. Dan Bradley presents the following account of "The Annual Visitation of the King to the Temples"-

"All the temples in Bangkok and its suburbs, which have been made by, or dedicated to the King, expect a splendid visit from His Majesty sometime between the middle of the 11^th and 12^th moons. This is the season appointed by the most ancient and sacred customs, for the Priests to seek their apparel for the year coming.

"In conformity with this custom, the King taking a princely offering of Priest's apparel with him, visits the temples. The ceremony is called "Tawt kat'in" (sic), which means to lay down in a pattern in order to cut patch-work by it. The pattern is ket'in, which in ancient times the Priests of Buddha used in cutting their cloth in patches to be sewed together to make their outer and inner robes. ... The cloth was cut with a knife. ... Although they do not now use the kat'in to cut the patches by, but do it by the eye only, this work is still called by that name; and that circumstance alone gives the name to the great ceremony of carrying these ready-made patches robes to the Temples.

"In olden times, in Buddha's day, the custom was for the priests to go out at this season of the year to seek old cast of clothing for the purpose of getting patches to make their robes, and these they would sew together into such forms as the seven kinds of priestly garments required. ...

"But that custom has gradually given place to the splendid and august one of making their patched garments from new cloth, dyed yellow; and made ready for the princely donations of thousands of the affluent and the more humble contributions of the poor. ... The cloth is dyed yellow for the purpose, as tradition says, of imitating somewhat the original custom of Buddha and his followers who preferred a dingy yellow color for their patched robes. ..."

Dr. Bradley described four kind as classes of kat'in:
Kat'in Looang - the King's Kat'in; Kat'in Chow — the Prince's Kat'in; Kat'in Koonang — the Nobleman's Kat'in; and Kat'in Prei — the people's Kat'in. In addition to the robes, other necessities were given to the monks.

"Origin of The Wat Visitation"

An older account of these temple visits is found in the 1869 issue of the Siam Repositories. The following, a translation of the original text, describes the practice as it existed over 700 years ago.

"The King was the Sovereign of Northern Siam and reigned in Swargaloke (sic) and Sukhoday, more than 700 years ago. In the history of the North during that reign, the story is —

'That at the season of the full moons of October and November, in the Royal Wats — Wats which received Royal Patronage — each furnished fireworks which the proper officers in attendance were waiting to set off. At the place in front of the palace, called the Royal Seat of Jolbimanjay, were arranged and placed in readiness, boats, containing baskets full of food with branches placed in the center of them, suspended lanterns from which hung yellow cloths, such as are called "papa", presents from the King...."

... and partly from the officials from the front, and from within, and partly from the people in the proportion to the extent of their means ... These were arranged and deposited for presentation before the Royal Seat Jolbimanjay.

"At night when His Majesty came down to observe, and descended into his boat, in company with the distinguished women of the palace, who descended into their boats and formed part of the retinue, as the King's boat started the government officers and the people who came to be spectators and to participate ... drew along with their boats ... containing baskets of cloths. ... Wherever the procession of boats was to stop, and on the King's arrival in front of that wat, the officials set off the fireworks and honoured him. ..."

The Royal Barges in the Rattanakosin Period: A Precious Heritage

Throughout his long reign, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej has devoted special attention to the preservation of the arts and culture of Thailand. On viewing the ruins of Ayutthaya, His Majesty once said: "Ancient ruins always do honour to a nation. Even an old brick from an ancient ruin is worthy of our preservation, for if we do not have Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Bangkok, then Thailand itself does not mean anything."

Restoration of the magnificent Royal Barges of Thailand is an example of His Majesty's respect and caring for the Thai cultural heritage. The Royal Barges are the last of their kind in the world. The images of the majestic "Sri Suphannahongse" in a Royal Barge Procession is symbolic of Thailand.

The barges were badly damaged by bombing during World War II. Upon His Majesty's return to Thailand in December, 1951 H.M. the King went to inspect the damage and condition of the barges in their drydock on the Bangkok Noi Canal on the west side of the river. His Majesty was gravely concerned about the extensive deterioration of these historic relics and commissioned their renovation. He also revived the ancient tradition of the Royal Barge Procession for nationally auspicious occasions.

The waterways of Siam have served as highways for Thai people for centuries and Thai life was dependent on waterborne transportation.

NARAI SONG SUBAN

The Narai Song Suban Rama IX Royal Barge with Garuda figurehead is the first Royal Barge to be built during the present reign of the Chakri Dynasty, but the second Royal Barge to carry this name. The Narai Song Suban Royal Barge was built and presented to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej during the grand celebrations marking the Fiftieth Anniversary (Golden Jubilee) of His Majesty’s Accession to the Throne in 1996.

The bow of the Narai Song Suban is decorated with a figure of Vishnu mounted on Garuda. One of the gods in the Hindu trinity — Brahma, Siva and Vishnu, Vishnu is known as Phra Narai in Thai.

Brahma (Phra Phrom) is the Creator, Siva (Isuan) is God of Destruction and Rebirth, and Vishnu (Phra Narai), the Preserver and Protector.

According to ancient folk belief, Vishnu manifests himself on earth in a variety of incarnations, or avatars. Rama is one of the earthly incarnations of Vishnu (Narai).

One of the many roles assumed by Siamese kings through the centuries is that of ‘Devaraja’ — the ‘Divine King’. This ancient tradition continues to this very day. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej is King Rama IX. Garuda — the mythical bird-man is Vishnu’s vehicle.

THE SUBHANAHONGSA

The name 'Subanahongsa' or 'Golden Hamsa', a swan — like mythical steed of Brahma, forst appeared in chronicals of the Ayutthaya period. King Rama I commanded the Royal Barge Sri Subanahongsa to be built soon after his accession to the throne in 1782. The predecessor of the Subanahongsa was 36 metres in length, 2.88 metres at the beam and drew a draught of 67 centimetres. She was in constant use as the Principal Royal Barge until she became too old to be repaired. King Rama VI then commanded the building of her successor, the present Subanahongsa which was launched on November 13, 1911

The Subanahongsa is 46.15 metres in length, 3.17 metres at the beam with the depth of her her hull at 94 cms. Her full complement consists of 50 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers fore and aft, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, I chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers. In state processions, she carries either a spired throne or a roofed pavillion surrounded by court officials.

The Subanahongsa is made out of a single trunk of teakwood. It is said that the master craftsman threw away all his tools after her completion and vowed never to work again. Whether this is true or not is immaterial for she is the most majestic of all Royal Barges. Her hamsa figurehead is raised in flight with protruding eyes, flared nostrils, fangs showing through her grimacing mouth. She holds a crystalline ball and tassle in her mouth, wears a garland and pendant around her neck. Her feathers, represented by gilded and mirrored Thai ornaments, seemingly flow in the wind all along the length of her body to her flame-like tail. She is presented in full flight aided by the stylized motion of the oarsmen. Their gilded paddles flash in sunlight suggesting the sedate movement of her wings.

THE ANANTANAGARAJ

Second in rank to the Subanahongsa is the Royal Barge Anantanagaraj or 'Multiple Headed Naga', the mythical snake-like creature, symbol of water. The Anantanagaraj also has a predecessor which was built during the reign of King Rama IV. She was launched on April 15, 1914 in the reign of King Rama VI. She is 44.85 metres long, 2.58 metres at the beam and 87 centimetres deep. Her crew consists of 54 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers.

The Anantanagaraj is a wonderful example of human imagination. The figurehead is in the form of a seven headed serpent: an intricate sculpture enhanced with gold and coloured reflectors. Wonderment continues all along her body which is covered with multitude of small serpents densely woven into floral vines. She wears a garland and pendant around her neck, but a cannon port in her bow indicates her origin as a war barge.

THE ANEKAJATIBHUJONGA

Oldest of the Principal Royal Barges is the Anekajatibhujonga. She was built upon the command of King Rama V. Her dimensions are 45.67 metres in length, 2.91 metres at the beam and 91 centimetres deep. Her crew consists of 61 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman, 1 chanter and 7 Royal Insignia bearers.

In state procession along the waterways, the Anekajatibhujonga stands out as being majestically plain. She bears no pictorial figurehead, but has a simple yet graceful beam-like prow. Upon close inspection, it becomes apparent that this is an illusion. She is actually covered all over with a most intricate pattern of innumberable naga figures. Thus in contrast to the Subanahongsa which is best seen from a distance, the closer one approaches the Anekajatibhujonga, the more apparent her intricate detail becomes. This is the work of delication by craftsmen who took great care not only for the general appearance, but also for absolute detail.

THE ESCORT BARGES

In places of honour leading the Principal Royal Barges are pairs of ancient escort barges. These have a long history dating from the First Reign, undergoing periodic restorations until the present. They carry signalling drums and ceremonial music instruments. Apart from ceremonial duties, they also go to the immediate aid of the Royal Barges in case of difficulty.

THE EKACHAI BARGES

The Ekachai Hernhow is 29 metres long and 1.8 metres at the beam. Her twin the Ekachai Laothong is 27 metres long and 2 metres at the beam. Each has a complement of 38 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 2 officers, 1 standard bearer and 1 signalman.

The Ekachai barges display tapering column figureheads. They represent the horns of yet another mythical animal, the hera, the horned dragon. The heads and bodies of the hera are actually painted on the prow using the gilded lacquer technique in which gold leaf is applied onto a blcak lacquer background. The heras are depicted as fierce animals with open mouths breathing fire. Their fangs protude and their long tongues support crystalline orbs.

THE KRUT BARGES

The Krut or Garuda, steed of Vishnu, is the figurehead of this class of barge. The Krut Tret Trichak is 26.5 metres long and 1.8 metres at the beam. The Krut Hern Rahet is of the same length and 2 metres at the beam. Each carries 34 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.

The garudas are depicted in full flight with protuding eyes and bared fangs. Their arms and legs spread out with feathers fluttering in the wind. They hold a naga in each hand and foot. The body of the garuda straddles the cannon port in the bow. The hulls of the barges are decorated with gilded lacquer using traditional floral motif.

Four escort barges have monkeys figure as their figureheads. They represent the simian warriors from the Ramakian, the Thai literary epic based on the Ramayana. These characters serve Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, hence their appearance in the Royal Service of Kings.

The Pali Rang Thaveep and the Sukhreep Krong Muang have crowned figureheads. The former is 26.75 metres long, 2 metres at the beam, and the latter is 28 metres long, 1.55 metres at the beam. Each has a crew of 34 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.

The Krabi Ran Ron Rap and the Krabi Prab Muang Marn have the figureheads of Hanuman and Nilaphat. Both of these barges are 27 metres long and 2 metres at the beam. The crew of each barge consists of 36 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.

The figureheads are presented fully alert and at attention, their gilded robes flowing in the wind. The hulls are painted with gilded lacquer in a floral motif.

A pair of escort barges have Asura or ogre guardian figures as their figureheads. They represent half-bird, half-ogre mythical beings. The Asura Vayapak is 28 metres long and 2.1 metres at the beam. The Asura Paksi is a little longer at 29 metres. Each has a complement of 40 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer, 1 standard bearer, 1 signalman and 2 station markers.

These figureheads stand out from the others because of their composite appearance top half is fierce and exudes strength, yet the birdlike bottom half appears quite delicate in design. They too straddle cannon ports, and preside over floral hulls.

Last of the ancient royal barges are a pair of Sua or tiger barges. Their bows are painted with fierce looking tiger heads, the hulls are painted with tiger stripes. The Sua Kamron Sindh is 20.75 metres long , 1.5 metres at the beam. The Sua Thayan Chon is 20.5 metres long and 1.5 metres at the beam. Each carries a crew of 26 oarsmen, 2 steersmen, 1 officer and 1 signalman. These barges are different from the other escort barges in that they display their cannons prominently pointing out over the bows.

Described above are the Royal Barges which from the main body of state processions. A number of smaller barges of less importance surround this main body acting as outer escorts and attendants. They are collectively known as rua dang and rua saeng. Generally they are plain long boats with slightly raised stem and stern pieces. The number of oarsmen in each barge varies between 20 to 30, but all barges have 2 steersmen and 1 commanding officer.

A few attendant barges perform special duties in the procession. One pair of rua dang are specially decorated by an overall covering of gold leaf. They are stationed in the van. One known as Taeng Mo carries the commander-in-chief of the state procession. Another called E-luang carries his second in command. Some which carry court constables and officials are known as rua tamruad or police barges. Lastly, a pair known as Thong Kwan Fa and Thong Ba Bin, identified by decorative golden stems and carrying high ranking government officials, close the procession.

Deep-rooted traditions are preserved as much as practically possible in modern Royal Barge Processions. The crews are officers and men of the Royal Thai Navy, changing their roles from seamen of the technological era to warriors of old. Training to handle long boats, propelling them with brute strength, and doing so stylistically, in keeping with the ceremonial nature of the occasion, all demand a high level of organization, discipline and dedication. Most important is the fact that however spectacular the Royal Barge Procession may be, it is never organized purely as a spectacle.

Each and every procession is mounted for a specific purpose of conveying the King or a highly venerated Buddha statue. The participants therefore carry out full state duties and responsibilities.

Preserved are the colourful traditional costumes of the crews. Those of the Principal Royal Barges are armed with swords. Modern elements may be seen in some details such as the royal decorations and side arms of the officers, communication and public address equipment, and modern weaponry for security. Thus this aspect of the Thai traditional remains very much a part of our culture in the modern world.

REGAL SPLENDOUR
The Royal Barge Procession
Please click to view

GRAND ROYAL BARGE PROCESSION
June 2, 6, 9 and 12, 2006
Tickets Now Available from the Tourism Authority of Thailand
Locations:
Bank of Thailand - riverside lawn
Riverside III cruise ship docked by the Royal Navy Institute
Dress Rehearsal: June 2 and 6
Full Dress Rehearsal: June 9
Actual performance: June 12
Please click to view