The town has been a beehive of activity. Alongside the efforts of big name relief outfits, local grassroots organizations popped up and began helping in creative and effective ways. One example is a humanitarian organization called the Ecotourism Training Center (ETC). The ETC mission has been to help young local people in Khao Lak gain new job skills in environmentally based tourism, while teaching the importance of protecting the natural environment. It has become the subject of an astonishing array of international and local media, coming to the attention of some 500 million people worldwide.

The young Thai students of the ETC have embarked on a remarkable journey to help resurrect the larger community. Far from being an isolated group, they have interfaced with other local people, relief organizations, businesses, international volunteer groups and local schools to help stimulate a rapid recovery. Although the programme did not fit neatly into the criteria for assistance from other NGO's, the French Red Cross eventually recognized its impact and helped fund the second year of the programme.

The programme consists of three major components wrapped into one integrated curriculum: English language instruction, computer skills, and professional level scuba instruction. When ETC students finish the nine-month intensive training programme, they earn certification as PADI divemasters and PADI diving instructors. They also have the language skills, the computer skills, the environmental knowledge and the business education which allows them to be successful in many other sustainable tourism industries as well. For each of these young people, it's been a dream that seemed impossible. Many couldn't swim or speak a word of English when they started, but now they are professional level guides. Best of all, the strong environmental principles of the programme make them strong local advocates for respecting Khao Lak's plethora of natural treasures on land and in the sea. As this article went to press, the second group of 11 divemasters and five new PADI instructors graduated on 21 July 2007.

KEEPING PARADISE SUSTAINABLE
Khao Lak features many local trails winding through the ancient rainforest, and hidden waterfalls and swimming holes for the hiker. You can also take jungle treks on elephant back that take you high up into the hills for spectacular views out to sea. Peaceful and private bungalow settings are always available as well as five-star resorts on the seashore. And for those who love to explore nature, there are guided tours of the Khao Sak National forest, revealing a fantastic array of Thai wildlife including rare birds, reptiles, mammals and plants. There is a huge lake in this park where guests can stay in floating bungalows and travel by boat to various places in the park. Visitors are also close to Phang-Nga Bay and some of the finest sea-kayaking adventures.

Huge limestone cliffs, known as karst formations, rise up out of the bay. The sea caves at their bases can only be explored by kayak entering on the low tide. Some caves pierce deep into the centre of these huge formations. Flashlights reveal sparkling walls as visitors paddle silently towards secret lagoons inhabited by rare species of both plants and wildlife: hornbills, sea eagles, fruit bats, monkeys and even fish that can crawl up and perch on the roots of mangrove trees.

And of course this wouldn't be complete without mentioning that Khao Lak is the gateway to the Similan and Surin Islands — which are ranked in the top ten diving destinations in the world. Truly the things to be seen underwater here make for an unforgettable experience. Both the undersea topography and the rich diversity of sea life are guaranteed to thrill and amaze.

That's why a mission to build the capacity of local people to work in the environmental tourism sector is so appropriate. The theory is simple enough: If local people have an economic stake in protecting the beauty of their community, they will.

With all this in mind, ETC students began clearing the beaches, and surveying the undersea swimming areas for many of Khao Lak's resorts as they began to rebuild.

They worked with the Chulabhorn 36 Marine Project and the Royal Thai Navy Seals to regenerate local reefs. They also collaborated with prominent Thai marine scientists at the Phuket Marine Biology Center to monitor the health of the coral and sea life. On one occasion while working to remove many tons of abandoned fishing nets and other tsunami related debris from the sea, they saved a fortunate giant manta ray, entangled and struggling for its life. The episode was documented on video.

The students hike in the forests, kayak through the mangroves, swim through the sea, and share what they learn with the community. The students have created an outreach program called English Camp — a mentorship program to help inspire local school children to learn English and respect and protect the natural environment by taking groups of local children on PADI snorkelling and scuba discovery experiences.

After touring a new experimental bio-diesel production facility in Krabi Province, the ETC converted their long tail diving boats and company truck to run on cleaner burning palm oil. Now they are busy petitioning the other dive companies to do the same. All in all, the ETC students have been a huge inspiration to the area, and to the global media as well. [See sidebar to see how you can help support the programme.]

Before the tsunami struck, Khao Lak was considered a remote getaway, a well kept secret, and an alternative to the night life and bustle of neighbouring Phuket Province. There is a strong consensus among the local population that the area should remain that way. Still, tourism is a very important part of the economy here, and the people of Khao Lak have worked very hard together to prepare the area to receive guests again.

Natural beauty was always the area’s great attraction, and even amid the substantial luxury resort community here there is eagerness to preserve it. Most of the area's breathtaking resorts strive for a tucked away, private atmosphere and feature a serene view of the beautiful Andaman coast. Although the disaster has ushered in a new awareness of the area, the tsunami changed none of the things that make Khao Lak so special. But it has changed people's hearts and values. People here have learned about the value of life, the strength and importance of nature, and the kindness of strangers in a way that has altered them forever.

With diving companies back on track, and resorts, hotels and guest houses reporting strong bookings, the restaurants and shops have reopened and are doing well. It is quite a phenomenon. The area’s recent history, instead of repelling tourism, has become a point of interest. Khao Lak today is a place so full of life. It has grown back stronger and more beautiful than before.