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When it comes to motorcycle touring, Thailand ranks as one of the world’s great destinations. This is for the very simple reason that it has it all: craggy hills, forests, endless coastlines, unspoiled national parks, historic monuments, magnificent temples, modern cities, ancient ruins, diverse ethnicities, varied cultures, an advanced road network, accommodation to suit all budgets — and, of course, the hospitality and grace that really mark the kingdom out in the world. Apart from the ‘oneness’ with the environment that riding a motorcycle brings, it also allows you to go where you like, when you like. As well as visiting all the well-known places advertised in the holiday brochures, you can also get way off the beaten track and explore roads far less travelled. |
Regions
Motorcycling in Thailand can be divided into four main geographical areas: the north and northwest; the west, the northeast and the south. Thailand’s shared western border with Myanmar (Burma), from Mae Sai in the far north to Ranong in the south, is largely made up of rugged hills. Probably the most spectacular part is in the north and northwest: the border roads between Mae Sariang and Mae Sot, and the ‘loop’ taking you from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son — a northern route if you travel clockwise, and southern if you go anti-clockwise.
The northern winter from about November to February can be cold enough for you to see your breath, but it never actually freezes. This is a region of rugged scenery where the fogs of dawn clear to reveal temples on hilltops, villages set among seasonal flowers and rhythmically receding craggy ridgelines. The area around Chiang Rai and Nan closer to the Lao border, and within a whisper of the Mekong River is also stunning, with Doi Phu Kha and the wild hills around Mae Salong among the highlights.
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Road to Sangkhlaburi
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Sai Yok National Park
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The second section of the western border for great motorcycling lies west of Bangkok. Using Kanchanaburi as a base, riders can explore remote Sangkhlaburi near Three Pagodas Pass, or Sai Yok National Park and the Si Nakharin Dam, and then ride on down to Kaeng Krachan National Park south of Ratchaburi. Riders cruise by waterfalls and overnight in resorts or guesthouses often situated by rivers, lakes and reservoirs.
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Mekong Sunset in Chiang Khan, Loei province
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Mekong Sunset in Chiang Khan, Loei province
Image © TAT |
The rural northeastern provinces of Thailand, known collectively as Isaan, are largely flatlands dotted with sugar palms. Starting with the spectacular and unspoiled Khao Yai National Park just inside the province of Khorat, one travels on through a region dotted with ancient ruins — legacies of the territorial ebb and flow of ancient empires. The exquisite Khmer ruins at Phanom Rung and Phimai must be considered highlights, but there are plenty of others scattered around the landscape. As one heads north and passes Petchabun, the elevation rises to the plateau of Loei — an area that in many ways resembles a corner of the south of France. These highlands stretch west merging into what becomes the north of the country around Dan Sai.
Southern Thailand offers rides down coastlines of white sand, fringed with pine trees and eerie limestone outcrops. On the Andaman coast, the rugged area around Ranong and Khao Sok National Park gives way to the ethereal beauty of Phuket, Phang Nga and Krabi and on again to other tidy coastal towns made prosperous by centuries of maritime trade and rubber cultivation. In the Gulf of Thailand, one can take a ferry to Koh Samui or Koh Phangan, explore the interior of the islands or park up by any number of white sandy beaches and take a hammock-swinging rest from the road. |
Chiang Mai and the Mae Hong Son Loop
An extensive tour by motorcycle of Thailand’s attractions would obviously take weeks, if not months, but packages are nevertheless on offer. There are also packages for more experienced riders that include off-road sectors. Although every region of Thailand has something distinctive to enjoy, if one only has limited time, it is best to head north. Chiang Mai is a natural touring base as well as being a fascinating and vibrant city in itself where the ancient and modern rub shoulders. As Thailand’s northern ‘capital,’ it has an international airport, and great rides begin within ten minutes of the city centre.
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Samoeng Loop
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A good taster for getting used to both the roads and your newly rented machine is the Samoeng Loop. This is 100 kilometres of gently twisting road taking you through some hilly scenery and down the Mae Sa Valley. There are plenty of things to see along the way, including hill tribe villages, waterfalls and the Mae Sa Elephant Camp. The loop can be done in two hours, but allow four or more in order to enjoy drink stops, sightseeing and the odd fifteen minutes here and there spent marvelling at the views.
Once you are used to the roads and your machine, it is time to embark upon the Mae Hong Son Loop, undoubtedly on one of the greatest motorcycle rides in the world. With over 1,600 bends, it is regularly rated among the top ten motorcycling routes in the world. I myself have been round the loop 16 times and will never tire of its 900-plus kilometres of amazing vistas, challenging roads, great places to stay and remote hill tribe settlements. And, just for good measure, the circuit includes Doi Inthanon, the highest ‘mountain’ in Thailand, approached through an avenue of rhododendrons. The loop can be done in four to seven days depending on how many diversions you chose to explore along the way.
The first 50 kilometres are along a straight, fast road north out of Chiang Mai. At Dong Palan you turn left off Route 107 on to Route 1095, and things begin to really change as the road winds up through increasingly thick forest towards Pai. The valleys are thickly canopied, with small streams and spectacular views at every turn. The final descent to Pai is long and very steep — this is a road best taken slowly.
Pai itself is an increasingly busy resort town popular with both foreigners and Thais. The townsfolk include an interesting mixture of indigenous Shan people and Muslim Yunnanese immigrants who arrived from China after 1949. Heading out of Pai along Route 1095, the road once again begins to climb steeply and makes for challenging riding around tight bends. The amazing scenery continues relentlessly. The only major town between Pai and Mae Hong Son is Soppong. There are some excellent guesthouses and resorts here on both sides of town if you want to break your journey.
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Near Mae Hong Son
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Near Mae Hong Son
Image © TAT |
As you continue, there is a slow descent taking you through what can only be described as a sort of tropical Narnia. Best seen just before the year-end rice harvest, one drives through little valleys lined with paddy fields of almost luminous green dotted with huge limestone outcrops. |
Mae Hong Son always used to have a wild border town feel about it. Somehow, it has managed to retain its air of remoteness whilst actually being quite accessible and extremely congenial. It too has an airport, and there are some particularly agreeable guesthouses around the central lake near a particularly impressive temple, Wat Jong Kham.
Driving out of Mae Hong Son, Route 108 is a much straighter and faster road after Route 1095 from Pai. After about 70 kilometres, there is a choice between carrying on south to the delightful riverside town of Mae Sariang, or turning left just before Khun Yuam and heading directly over the mountains to Doi Inthanon.
If you take the southern route, a one-night stop in Mae Sariang makes good sense. This is a pleasant little town with small modern hotels and old wooden guest houses running alongside the gently flowing Yuam River. The road back to Chiang Mai from here is a good day’s ride, and takes you past yet more splendid mountain scenery before you join the main highway.
If you choose the Doi Inthanon route, you are embarking on a very different ride. Route 1263 climbs quickly and the road starts to weave and wind in earnest. Unlike other parts of the loop, the hills are quite sparsely forested, and at times reminiscent of parts of Spain. The road feels very remote all the way to Mae Chaem at the foot of Doi Inthanon. Approaching from this side affords a marvellous view of the mountain set in its own national park. On the way up, Route 1192 is lined with wild flowers that scent the air amid constantly changing vegetation. At over 2,500 metres, Doi Inthanon is the highest point in the land, and can blow a good wind that will leave you feeling unusually cold for Thailand. It is a great place to stop for lunch. The drive down the eastern side along Route 1013 takes you to the junction with the main road to Chiang Mai. From there, it is a relatively quick trip back with gentle bends and a slow incline.
Safety and planning
Be sure that you have good protective clothing. A proper helmet is an absolute necessity and a legal requirement — as is an international driving license if you don’t have a local one. Goggles or a visor will protect your eyes against dust and insects — both of which you will encounter in abundance. If you should be unfortunate and take a tumble, be reminded that when tarmac meets skin the results can be excruciating. Make sure you have gloves, stout boots and something that covers your arms. If you can’t afford expensive specialist gear, then go for a thick denim shirt or jacket. And always remember that riding on the open road won’t feel nearly so cool if you wind up with bad sunburn — another reason for covering up properly.
In terms of driving conditions, be aware that the roads may be remarkably good in much of Thailand, but the driving can sometimes be erratic or lackadaisical — particularly with traffic coming on to the road in front of you from the left. Always keep your speed down and leave plenty of space around you in order to maximize reaction time. There are other hazards to look out for, particularly animals wandering into your path. The main offenders are canines, but don’t rule out buffaloes and the occasional elephant. Also, watch out for potholes, particularly around the end of the wet season in October and November when the rains have extracted their toll from the tarmac.
Where there is good motorcycling to be had, you will easily find motorcycle rental shops in the nearest big town. Chiang Mai is by far the best in the north, with a huge range of motorcycles both large and small on offer. Single cylinder Honda and Kawasaki 175 cc machines manufactured in Thailand are inexpensive to rent, economic, extremely reliable and easily serviced along most routes. Among cities elsewhere, Pattaya on the Eastern Seaboard offers a particularly wide selection of machines.
For up-to-date information on motorcycling in Thailand, check out the website www.gt-rider.com. GT-Rider also publishes by far the best motorcycling maps of the region.
Motorcycle Hire Shops in Chiang Mai
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Dan White is a British photographer and feature writer with a special interest in South and Southeast Asia. His work has appeared in numerous publications around the world. He devoted much of 2009 to photographing Eras and Empires: Temples of Thailand, a coffee-table book being published by Marshall Cavendish. |
