While there is no doubt about the popularity of Thai cuisine around the world, the same cannot be said about the authenticity of many of the ‘Thai’ dishes that are being served up — are they Thai or non-Thai? This has sparked a healthy discussion and led to an active interest in identifying Thailand’s true culinary origins.
If a supposedly Thai curry, prepared by an anonymous cook, is presented to you in a restaurant overseas, can you tell whether it is Thai or not?
Here are some tips and facts that may help your decision-making on authentic Thai food versus non-authentic Thai food or fusion food (the kind that may cause confusion).
Learn about the most important herbs and spices used in traditional Thai cuisine such as lemongrass, Thai/greater galangal, Thai/Kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, hot basil, sweet basil, shallots, cassia and pepper from books or the internet.
Buy them fresh and then tear or cut them to experience their aromas which are usually related to essential oils.
Local herbs (samun prai) include lemongrass, Thai/greater galangal, Thai Krachai related to galangal, Thai/Kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, hot basil, sweet basil and shallots.
Green Thai curry must be green (pigments from green chillies and chilli leaves).
Red Thai chilli (technically a fruit) is not red Cayenne chilli.
Locally produced Thai spices (pungent or aromatic seasonings) include cassia, pepper and powdered chillies.
Cassia is related to Sri Lankan cinnamon and Thais often refer to cassia as cinnamon.
Foreign spices (kreung thet) for Thai cuisine include cardamom, cloves, cumin, nutmeg, mace and star anise.
Thais had to wait for the import of various foreign spices before coming up with
Thai Muslim Curry. (An analogy: "The English had to wait for imported Chinese ginger to create English Ginger Biscuits".)
The aroma of Thai hot basil (Bai Kaprow) is different to that of Thai sweet basil (Bai Horapa), and Italian basil is no substitute.
In most Thai recipes with onions, small red-purple shallots rather than the larger European shallots or onions are used.
Tomato-sized green aubergine cannot be substituted by purple eggplant.
Ginger is no substitute for Thai/greater galangal.
Thai fish sauce and tamarind water provide extra flavours for Thai fried noodles, i.e. Phad Thai.
Lemongrass and Thai/Kaffir lime leaves are more important than galangal in Tom Yum Goong (Hot and Spicy Prawn Soup).
Bai Kaprow is used in Thai cuisine and not in Indian cuisine because it is regarded as “Holy Basil” in India.
Although Red Roasted-Duck Curry has evolved so fast, one needs to explain the adding of non-Thai fruits such as English apple or Chinese litchi/lychee or Kiwi fruit.
Some Thai fruits of old Siam comprise coconut (a drupe), banana, mango, durian, jackfruit, oranges (green skinned), pomelo and starfruit.
In old recipes, coconut sugar was preferred to cane sugar and the best sugar for desserts, Nam Taln Tanod, came from Palmyra palm.
There are many English transliterations for Thai food dishes such as Thai Muslim Curry- Gaeng Matsaman aka Gaeng Masaman, Gaeng Massaman, Gaeng Musaman, Gaeng Mudsaman and Thai Green Curry- Gaeng Khieow Waan aka Gaeng Khiew Wan and Gaeng Khiu Waan.
In Thai, Gaeng means a product derived from cooking with a considerable amount of water i.e. a curry or a soup. Gaeng Matsaman is commonly understood to mean Muslim (derived possibly from the late 17th century term “Musulman”) and the development of this classic curry is related not only to Muslim traders travelling between the Indian subcontinent and Thai-Malay peninsula but also to relatives and descendants of Sheik Ahmad Qomi, a Persian from Qom.
This Thai Muslim Curry was granted royal recognition and was accordingly mentioned in both a royal poem and a royal boat song — Gaeng Matsaman Nuer (Muslim Beef Curry) and Matsaman Gaeng Kaeow-ta (Beloved Muslim Curry), by His Majesty King Rama II (reigned 1809-1824 AD) of the early Bangkok Period.1,2 However, the recipe for this curry was not recorded at that time.
The first recipe for Gaeng Mutsaman Kai/Gai (Muslim Chicken Curry) — Kai/Gai means chicken in Thai — first appeared in Patinnabutr Lae Jod Mai Het, a magazine-like publication.3 The spices for this curry comprised chillies, onion, lemongrass, coriander root, cardamom, cassia (cinnamon), coriander seeds, star anise, cumin, pepper. The recipe also contained Thai shrimp paste.3 Chicken was once again the meat in the second recorded recipe — Gaeng Matsaman Nam Som Za (Muslim Chicken Curry with juice of a citrus fruit, Som Za in Thai with the botanical name of Citrus rutaceae).4
PUTTING THE “AUTHENTIC THAI” CRITERIA TO THE TEST
As to the Thainess of Thai Muslim Curry, I would like to claim that Gaeng Matsaman is definitely Thai.
Let’s pose a challenge and ask the question — “Do you know of another recipe in another country that used similar spices and Kapi (shrimp paste) and got published in or before 1889 AD?”
To demonstrate that Thai Muslim Chicken Curry is indeed Thai food, the following criteria can be applied:
Ingredients are probably unlike those of other ethnic groups
Cuisine recipes were published by Thai persons (from 1889 AD onwards)
Thai name was recorded in Thai literature in the early Bangkok (Rattanakosin) Period, and
Matsaman or Massaman is probably on menus of Thai restaurants more than those of restaurants in other countries.
A judgment on authenticity should not be based purely on an individual’s senses. It seems appropriate that the ingredients and recipes should be objectively assessed.
In comparing four recipes of Gaeng Matsaman (1889-2003 AD), the common ingredients are chillies, coriander seeds, coconut milk, cumin, onion, cardamom, cassia (cinnamon) and shrimp paste.1,3,10,11 So, authenticity can initially be based on ingredients and the most authentic Thai Muslim Curry must contain all of the 8 ingredients.
Some variations are to be expected with time as Gaeng Matsaman evolved and became a good example of Thai food evolution. It is to be expected that many Thais will argue on behalf of the other ingredients such as citrus juice (Som Za), coriander roots, cloves, galangal, lemongrass, mace, nutmeg, peanuts, potato and Thai fish sauce, and will try to attribute varying grades of authenticity with little prospect of a common agreement. Whatever the outcome, Matsaman Curry is definitely Thai and regrettably, this classic Thai curry did not make the top-ten list in a comprehensive international survey.
In 1999, the Office of the National Culture Commission, Royal Thai Government, announced the results of a questionnaire survey of 1,500 Thai restaurants in Africa, America, Asia, Australia and Europe.
The top ten dishes were: (1) Hot and Spicy Prawn Soup- Tom Yum Kung/ Tom Yum Goong, (2) Green Chicken Curry- Gaeng Khieow Waan Gai, (3) Thai Fried Noodles- Pad Thai/ Phad Thai, (4) Fried (Meat) with Thai Hot Basil- Pad/Phad Kaprao/Kaprow, (5) Red Roasted Duck Curry — Gaeng Phed Ped Yang, (6) Chicken Galangal Soup- Tom Kha Gai/Tom Khaa Kai, (7) Beef Salad- Yum Nuea/ Yum Nuer, (8) Satay Beef/ Chicken/ Pork- Satay Nuer/ Gai/ Moo, (9) Chicken Fried with Cashew Nuts- Gai Pad/Phad Mamoung Himmaphan/Himmapharn and (10) Beef with Thai “Panang” Curry Sauce- Panang Nuer.
At the top of the list, Thai Hot and Spicy Prawn Soup aka Tom Yum Goong, which some Thais regard as the king of soups, hardly requires any need for justification on Thainess or any confirmation as being a part of “Authentic Thai Cuisine”. But for the record, the first “Tom Yum” recipe was recorded in Thai in 1889 AD and that recipe for Thai Hot and Spicy Freshwater Fish Soup aka Tom Yum Pla Mor belonged to Than Phu Ying Plien Pasakornwong, wife of Chao Phraya Pasakornwong (P. Bunnag). For original taste, the important ingredients were fish, lemongrass, Thai/Kaffir lime leaves, pan-roasted chilli-paste, coriander leaves, fried garlic and lime juice.5 For seawater fish, she added tamarind but Thai galangal (Kha) was not included.6 Also for the record, the recipe of Galangal Chicken Soup- Tom Kha Gai (6 th place) appeared in the oldest Thai cook-book.7 A tip for inexperienced chefs is that young and lightly battered Thai galangal aka Kha is essential; and, Kha is Alipinia galanga and the larger type- Kha Yai is Alipinia siamensis indicating a close link with Siam. [Siam was renamed Thailand around the time of the Second World War.]
Returning to the topic of Green Chicken Curry- Gaeng Khieow Waan Gai (2nd place), it seems that this curry did not have a long history nor any aristocratic connection. From research, the earliest recipe of any dish with a name of “Khieow Waan” was a fried southern dish called “Pad/Phad Khieow Waan” published in 1936 AD (2479 BE).8 Around 1966 AD, HSH Princess Chanchareon Rajani provided the aristocratic connection to the Green Curry in her recipe of Gaeng Phed Khieow Waan Sam Chae, a green curry with sea-crab, chicken, prawns and dozens of green tiny chillies aka Phrik Kee Nu, or mouse dropping chillies, and more...9
For today’s gourmands, the green curry with sea-crab, chicken and prawns, Gaeng Phed Khieow Waan Sam Chae, has disappeared.
The next best thing you can do when you’re in Thailand is to go to Kalapapruek restaurant on Pramuan Road, off Silom Road and order Gaeng Khieow Waan Pu — Green Curry with Crab. After that, you can always leave a request encouraging the Rajani family, owner of this medium-priced restaurant, to include Gaeng Phed Khieow Waan Sam Chae in the future menu — and don’t forget to try their Tom Yum Goong, Pad/Phad Thai Sen Chan (Fried Thai White Noodles from Chanthaburi Province), Red Curry with Roasted Duck and their excellent Beef Satay.
If you are staying in the Sukhumvit area, another medium-priced restaurant that has been around for about thirty years is My Choice on Sukhumvit Soi 36. In considering authenticity, recommended dishes are Green Beef Curry, Red Duck Curry, Tom Yum with River Prawn and Tom Kha Gai (Chicken Galangal Soup).
For budget visitors in search of inexpensive and tasty curries, the answer lies in Krua Aroy Aroy on Pan Road, off Silom Road, near the Hindu temple. Favourites are Gaeng Matsamam Gai (Thai Muslim Chicken Curry) and Gaeng Khieow Waan Gai (Green Chicken Curry). But if one wishes to hold a special celebration, then more upscale Thai fine dining may be the right choice.
For premium dining, Naj- Exquisite Thai Cuisine restaurant is located on Convent Road, off Silom Road, and opposite BNH Hospital. Recommended dishes are Tom Yum Goong (Hot and Spicy Prawn Soup) and Phad Thai Goong Sod (Thai Style Stir-Fried Noodles with Fresh Prawns in Sweet and Sour Tamarind Sauce). A signature dish is Panang Si Krong Moo (Tender Pork Spare Ribs in Thick Rich Panang Curry Sauce). Another signature dish well worth a try is Tom Kha/Kaa Gai Haeng which is a “reduction” and less soupy version of Chicken Galangal Soup.
Story Copyright Kanit Muntarbhorn
Contact information for restaurants featured in the story
Naj - Exquisite Thai Cuisine restaurant ( for premium dining)
42 Convent Road, (off Silom Road, and opposite BNH Hospital, BTS-Saladang)
Tel: 66-2-6322812 / 02-6322812
Web site: www.najcuisine.com
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Dr Kanit Muntarbhorn, a food lover for more than half a century, has spent twenty years collecting data and has access to more than 70 older Thai "food and cuisine" books (1889-1960). By applying a scientific approach, he compares ingredients between old and modern Thai recipes as well as those of non-Thai recipes. He is working to differentiate between original, old, fusion, extreme fusion and non-authentic dishes in the world of Thai cuisine. His interest in "Thai Food Evolution" is related to the development of the foods eaten by Thais over centuries or even millennia. He has delivered lectures: "A Million Years of Food and the Nose" at a World Congress in Washington DC and "Thai Food and Cuisine: Definitions, Prehistory, History and Contemporary Relevance" at a conference in Bangkok.
E-mail: drkanitfood@yahoo.com
References:
Wandee Na Songkhla W. Royal Thai Cuisine Book 1: pages 4, 15 and 16. Thai and English languages. ISBN 974-86722-7-1.
Kanit Muntarbhorn. Gastronomy in Asia I (2007 AD): page 52. English language. ISBN 978-974-09-4793-6.
Nil Prian, Editor. Patinnabutr Lae Jod Mai Het, a magazine-like book published in 1889 AD (2432 Buddhist Era/BE): page 84. Thai language.
Nil Prian, Editor. Patinnabutr Lae Jod Mai Het, a magazine-like book published in 1890 AD (2433 BE): page 115. Thai language.
Nil Prian, Editor. Patinnabutr Lae Jod Mai Het, a magazine-like book published in 1889 AD (2432 BE): page 92. Thai language.
Nil Prian, Editor. Patinnabutr Lae Jod Mai Het, a magazine-like book published in 1890 AD (2433 BE): page 156. Thai language.
Somjean Rajanupraphand. Tam Ra Kub Khao, 1890 AD (2433 BE): page 55. Thai language.
Editor. Khaha Pattani, Memorial Book- Khun Ju Panich, 1936AD (2479 BE): page 70. Thai language.
HSH Princess Chanchareon Rajani. Tamra Kub Khao Prajam Baan, approx. 1966 AD (2509 BE): pages 96 and 97. Thai language.
M. L. Taw Kritakara and M. R. Pimsai Amranand. Modern Thai Cooking. Editions Duang Kamol: Bangkok, 1977 AD: pages 64 and 65. English language.
Nidda Hongwiwat. Arhan Thai (Thai Food). Sangdad Publishers: Bangkok, 2546 BE (2003 AD), pages 23 and 90. Thai language. In English, Popular Thai Cuisine is a translated book by the same author.
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