The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is an annual event held during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar. It is believed that the vegetarian festival and its accompanying sacred rituals bestow good fortune upon those who religiously observe this rite. During this time, local residents of Chinese ancestry strictly observe a 10-day vegetarian or vegan diet for the purposes of spiritual cleansing and merit-making. Sacred rituals are performed at various Chinese shrines and temples and aesthetic displays such as walking barefooted over hot coals and ascending ladders with bladed rungs are performed by entranced devotees known as "Ma Song".
The Vegetarian Festival or "jia chai" in the local Hokkien Chinese dialect is believed to have been observed in Phuket since 1825 when the Governor of Thalang, Praya Jerm moved the island's principal town was moved from Ta Reua District to Get-Hoe in Kathu District, in which Phuket's tin mines were located and Chinese immigrants had settled.
Legend has it that during the time, a popular Chinese opera company (called "ngiu" in Thai or "pa hee" in the Hokkien dialect) that was on tour stopped in Phuket to perform for the miners fell. The troupe soon fell ill with an undiagnosed fever and resorted to a strict vegetarian diet in honour the emperor gods Kiew Ong Tai Teh and Yok Ong Song Teh, in the belief that by doing so good health would be restored. For nine days and nights while homage is paid to the Emperor Gods and Star Deities, followers abstain from meat, alcohol and sex. The performers did indeed speedily regain their health leaving the Chinese community in awe and eager to learn more about this natural healing phenomenon.
The opera performers accredited their speedy and miraculous recovery to the observation of a strict vegetarian diet and the faith they held in the accompanying sacred rituals and ceremonies. The locals fervently embraced this new faith.
THE ORIGINS OF THE RITUALS
An emissary well-versed in the tradition subsequently volunteered to return to Kansai in China, where he invited the sacred "Hiao Ho-le or Hiao Ian" incense smoke and "Lian Tui" name plaques, symbolic of the gods, to reside in Kathu. He also brought back holy writings used in the ceremonies. The emissary arrived back in Phuket on the seventh night of the ninth month. Upon hearing of his arrival, the local community went in procession to Bang Niao Pier to bid him welcome. Since then, the procession has become a key component of the rituals.
The afternoon before the festival begins, a great pole known as the "Go Teng Pole" is erected in the grounds of the Chinese shrines and temples. It is believed that the pole provides the means for the gods to descend to earth. At midnight, nine lanterns are hung on the pole to mark the commencement of the fest and two important gods - Yok Ong Hong Tae and Kiew Ong Tai The - are invited down to preside over the ceremonies.
There are other ceremonies throughout the fest notably the invocation of the gods "Lam Tao" who watches of the living, and "Pak Tao" the keeper of the Dead; processions of the image of the gods, and feats of the "Ma Song" devotees. The "Ma Song" are believed to possess supernatural powers when they enter a state of trance as the gods take over their bodies during the ritual. The sacred rituals and aesthetic displays are performed to shift evil from others onto themselves and in doing so, good luck is bestowed on the community.
During the festival, the din of fireworks and drums is a common feature of the ceremonies performed as it is believed that the loud noise drives away evil spirits.
The festival ends with merit-making ceremonies being held at each of the temples. A ritual known as "sadoh kroh" or casting away bad fortune, and the send-off of the gods which is accompanied by impressive firework displays on the last night.
Those who observe the ritual adhere to a strict vegetarian diet for a varying number of days, generally no less than three. Devotees are also expected to observe some strict guidelines such as to avoid the slaughter of animals, cease consumption of meat and refrain from all vice. This brings about good health, well-being and inner peace.
Rules to be observed