Perhaps it is a contradiction to call such a boutique property “hip and trendy”, while conversely describing its décor as “a step back into time” — in this case, inspired by the golden age of Shanghai’s glamorous yet decadent 1930’s. Yet the theme here really works, and judging from the critiques, Shanghai Mansion is an unqualified success. Praise includes the Value for Money Awards featured in the March 2010 issue of The Sunday Times (UK) Travel Magazine; The Guardian (UK) lauded it as one of Bangkok’s “top 10 quirky hotels”, while National Geographic Traveler (US) listed it among their “Best of Bangkok” and Time Out Bangkok proclaims it “A Technicolor re-imagining of pre-Mao Shanghai”; Lonely Planet calls it “A breath of fresh air in a neighbourhood of dull and sometimes frightening hotels. ”

On entering the premises, one can almost smell history — no doubt an effect scintillated by the ever-present aroma of essential oil burners deliberately set in public areas to waft through the air. The building’s exact construction date is still a mystery, with some listings as early as 1892; others provenance its origin to 1923. It began as a rich merchants house, but there is no question the property was first and foremost commercial in design. This six-storey edifice, considered towering in those early decades, soon provided a cultural gathering for the local community to enjoy traditional performing arts — especially after the property inaugurated a Chinese opera house here, possibly in 1909. That roof top venue, with its splendid iron work cantilevered ceiling, is currently closed for renovations, but potential redevelopment plans range from a formal Chinese garden, to art space, sports centre, or t’ai chi venue.

Until that final stage of renovation, guests have the opportunity to view the unadorned above, while wallowing on lower levels below, in sumptuous nostalgia, bathed in a sea of juxtaposed colours from chichi jade, poodle pink, vivid vermilion and scarlet red. Some may call it kitsch, but it is all so seductive, with Chinese-style rooms evoking the romance of olden day Shanghai, replete with modern comfort and deluxe contemporary bathrooms and room amenities. Despite the classic design, all 76 rooms are fitted with complimentary high-speed wireless internet.

The sleeping rooms are named after classic Chinese flowers, and available in three categories. Two architectural teams worked separately on restoring these premises. The top two (and first developed) floors were done by an English team headed by Julian Coombs of internationally-acclaimed Coombs Associate. Here the mood-lit hallways evoke China’s Moslem West, with terra cotta turrets and finials leading to bedrooms with traditional panelled- and canopied-chuang beds, often referred to as “Chinese matrimonial beds” because they are traditionally shared per couple. These original rooms, or Mei Hua plum blossom havens, offer both king-size and two single canopy beds — the latter, instead of the traditional one per couple — to accommodate tourists’ larger sizes, each with a colourful sichou bei’zi silk duvet or quilt. Such rooms average at 27 square metres. A Singapore design team later remodelled the lower two floors, and here they took a different track: larger rooms opening directly onto spacious community areas instead of mood-lit hallways; queen and king size beds boasting rich brocade headboards; a Western-style white duvet; and luscious velvet chairs, or in the case of the suites, a large day bed for two, where guests can literally sink into piles of silk cushions. Even more striking is a featured pedestal bathtub, near the open cubicle WC and shower area. The deluxe Ying Hua cherry blossom havens range 39 sq. metres in size. Completing the trio are even-larger Mu Dan peony classics at 49 sq. metres, each equipped with a private atrium terrace, and aforementioned features.

On first glance, your taxi easily may miss the entrance of Shanghai Mansion. While conveniently located smack in the middle of bustling Chinatown, its street level is shared with a supermarket entry cum doorman baggage drop, while the lobby is a level higher, up an escalator. Even as late as 2008, these first and second upper floors housed fast food outlets until the hotel’s most recent renovation crowded them out. So today, those revamped floors now house spacious private lounge areas for guests to entertain outside of their respective bedrooms, overlooking a water garden pool replete with fish, and the comforting sounds of trickling water. Games from mah jong to checkers to reading materials and lounge chairs and desks sit outside each room, providing a Chinese-style community gathering effect, where guests socialise not only with neighbours, but where they can entertain visiting friends, as well.

Even more importantly, it nearly doubles the size of your living space! On select afternoons, there is the enchanting music of a traditional Chinese stringed guzheng played by the waterside. Meanwhile, the hotel’s signature restaurant, Cotton, proves ever-ready to provide room service eats and drinks, in addition to its three meal services (breakfast, lunch and dinner) plus afternoon tea service. And in the evening, from 6:30-10:30 p.m., Cotton transforms into a live jazz bar, showcasing some of Thailand’s top musicians and vocalists, plus occasionally, international jazz and blues performers. On some nights, they even offer free popcorn.

Catering to the ever-changing demands of tourism, the Shanghai Mansion recently instigated an alternative to its standard hotel breakfast fare, and at no extra charge. From 7 a.m. onward, the hotel can organize a 30-minute escorted walking breakfast tour of the vicinity, including deliciously hot jok congee (rice porridge), steaming pao buns from Tai Pae (reportedly, the best in the district), Chin Shack Dynasty pork products, and scalding cups of traditionally-filtered boran coffee, or iced olean tea soured with tamarind from Aie Sae, Chinatown’s oldest tea and coffee house.

It is no over-statement to say that at Shanghai Mansion, you are treated like an honoured guest in a Chinese noble house. And that feature alone, is well worth the price of admission.

Shanghai Mansion is part of the Special Hotels of the World group, which includes sister property Burasari on Patong Beach in Phuket.

Contact information:
Shanghai Mansion Bangkok
479-481 Yaowaraj Road, Samphantawong
China Town Bangkok
Tel: +66 (0) 2221 2121
Fax: +66 (0) 2221 2124
E-mail: jared@shanghaimansion.com
Web site: http://www.shanghaimansion.com
Prices from 2,250 baht with specials on offer