Loi Krathong, the tradition of setting banana-leaf boats with flickering candles adrift in rivers and waterways and aptly named the "Festival of Light", is now one of Thailand's most internationally known festivals.
This November, however, visitors to Bangkok and Bangkokians will be treated to a little known and rarely seen facet of the "Festival of Lights".
In a revival of long lost customs of the ancient capital, the Bangkok Loi Krathong Festival sets out to promote and preserve the royal rituals of the early Rattanakosin period in which several types of lanterns were set afloat in the Chao Phraya River and its waterways. The practice was subsequently adopted and adapted by common folk and has evolved into the "Loi Krathong" tradition we know of today.
During the early Rattanakosin period, the royal rituals of Jong Priang, Lote Choot, Loi Khome Long Nam, performed during the 12th lunar month (which usually falls in mid-November), were based on Brahmin beliefs. These were the court versions of Loi Krathong performed as an act of worship in which "God Kings" made offerings of light to the Brahmin deities. Lit lanterns were hoisted on to poles for two weeks during the 12th lunar month and then floated on the waterways as ritual offerings. From its Brahmin roots, the practice has evolved over time and has come to be part of a Buddhist ritual performed as an act of deep reverence and worship of the sacred relics and holy footprints of Lord Buddha.
While it is based on the same principle as the royal rituals, Loi Krathong is in essence a Buddhist ritual observed by the common folk and reflects the simplicity of life beyond the palace walls. Krathongs are made from basic materials easily found around the village and typically take the shape of lotus in full bloom, swans, chedis (stupas), and Mount Meru from Buddhist mythology.
The lighting of fireworks is undertaken in the same spirit as when lighting candles in an act of worship so fireworks displays are very much an integral element of the secular and religious rituals performed.
ANCIENT FESTIVALS OF LIGHT
AT THE BANGKOK LOI KRATHONG FESTIVAL
featuring Jong Priang, Lote Choot, Loi Khome Long Nam, & Loi Prateep
Please click to view
THE ANCIENT ROYAL RITUALS
"JONG PRIANG, LOTE CHOOT,
LOI KHOME LONG NAM"
The Jong Priang, Lote Choot, Loi Khome Long Nam royal ritual begins with an assembly of Buddhist monks for the recital of evening prayers.
The next morning, the monks receive offerings from the king. Brahmin priests then perform the ritual in the Brahmin Hall.
Candles and the "priang receptacle" which contains oxen fat or butter are presented to the king. The candles to be presented as sacred offerings are anointed with oxen fat or butter, lit by the king and placed in three distinct types of lanterns. Each denotes the rank and social status of the individual.
The Khome Chai lantern with its nine-tiered umbrella is symbolic of the king. Its bamboo frame is covered with white fabric decorated with stained glass or coloured mirrors. The Khome Chai lantern was fixed to a wooden lantern pole with swan-shaped hooks adorned with dainty bells. In contrast, the Khome Pratiab lantern of the royal concubine, features a seven-tiered umbrella, and the tubular-shaped bamboo Khome Boriwarn lantern of the royal entourage and attendants had a three-tiered umbrella.
The lit lanterns are hoisted onto lantern poles lining the palace walls as well as along the outer walls of the palace and the living quarters of the court attendants. At the end of the designated period, the lanterns are taken down from the poles and floated in the waterways. |
"LOI PRATEEP"
ILLUMINATED BOATS
The "Loi Prateep" royal ritual was performed in the royal court on the night of the full moon of the twelfth lunar month. The ritual begins with the king making offerings of rice, followed by Buddhist sermons being held in the Grand Palace.
The king then placed floral offerings at the "ubosoth" (chapel) of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha or Wat Phra Si Rattanasatsadaram, and the "Ho Phra" scripture hall of the Grand Palace, before setting off to Ratchaworadit Pier to float the giant krathongs.
The other notable aspect of "Loi Prateep" is its water-borne procession consisting of an impressive fleet of no less than five hundred illuminated vessels, each with two lit candles and an incense stick, being carried down-stream.
Two royal ceremonial barges serve as the State barges, the third carries a sacred Buddha image and the fourth carries other sacred and floral offerings. Other vessels consisted of escort boats, floating Thai orchestra, police boats, firework boats, and others. One of the accompanying vessels, the Phraya Chodeukrajasetthi Chinese Junk stands out from the rest.
Traditional giant krathongs of various shapes were crafted from cylindrical drums or rafts of 4 to 4.5 metres wide and 5 to 5.5 metres high and embellished with ornaments made from a variety of materials found in the immediate vicinity of the residential area. |
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ANCIENT FESTIVALS OF LIGHT
AT THE BANGKOK LOI KRATHONG FESTIVAL
featuring Jong Priang, Lote Choot, Loi Khome Long Nam, & Loi Prateep Delve back into history and rediscover the ancient festivals of light.
Some 200 traditional lantern pillars cast a warm glow over the area adjacent to the Ceremonial Pavilion by the Old City Moat in front of the Wat Buranasiri Mattayaram Temple.
As the three Khome Chai, three Khome Pratiab and some 200 Khome Boriwarn lanterns are raised, the lighting of the sacred candles in the Giant Royal Barge Krathong takes place. Replicas of two Royal State Barges are floated along with replicas of the two escort boats. The barges will be anchored in Bangkok's Old City Moat at the section in front of the Wat Buranasiri Mattayaram Temple.
Sacred offerings will be conveyed in a water-borne procession carried by the replica of the Suphannahongse Royal State Barge. The replica of the Anantanagaraj Royal State Barge will carry a sacred Buddha image, such as the Phra Buddhasihing Noi Buddha image or the Phra Chaiwattana.
The royal barges will be accompanied by a fleet of other vessels, each with an assigned role to play in the water-borne procession ranging from the floating Thai orchestra, the Indian drum, police boats, escort boats laden with pyrotechnics for the evening's offering of dazzling fireworks, and others. Over 200 ornate krathong or banana leaf boats in various shapes will be set adrift in the moat according to ancient traditions. Even the distinctive Chinese Junk will be spotted mingling in the midst of other craft.
As the evening progresses, the solemn ritual gives way to Loi Krathong festivities. Thundering booms and shrill whistles break the silence of night. The shroud of darkness is broken by a mesmerising display of a myriad of ancient fireworks such as the floral-shaped Dawk Mai Poom, the vine-shaped Ilang Ilang, saucer-shaped Ratah with wings that skim across the surface of the water, Poom Talai shooting stars, and other exotic shapes and forms. Some launched from the buoys set afloat in the moat and from the tapering towers on a square base placed at intervals along the banks of the river.
At various points along the river banks, nostalgic scenes portraying life along the rivers and waterways are relived once again. Presentations of popular classical Thai and traditional folk entertainment such as the Khon masked dance, Lakhon Chatri, traditional Thai stage drama, Thai marionettes, the 'Dancing Mon', sepa, boat songs and the recital of "Sakawa" poetry* continue into the night.
For a range of experiences and a varied pace, the Bangkok Loi Krathong Festival provides various options such as the Thai Costume contest featuring styles from the early Rattanakosin period, the krathong-making contest, food stalls offering delicious traditional dishes and desserts of the Central Plains, exhibits, or an opportunity to shop for a range of local products and handicraft.
INTRODUCING THE BOAT SONGS
BOAT SONGS (Pleng Ruea)*
In boat songs, men and women exchanged impromptu verses sung in a courting dialogue. This required quick wit, a healthy sense of humour, a strong voice, and a gift of versification on the part of the participating couples.
Men would invite women to engage in boat songs with them through song. If the women decide to accept the invitation, they would respond by singing their verses.
Once a response has been given, the interchange of impromptu verses continues. Puns and double meaning with sexual connotations were typical of boat songs. |
SAKAWA**
Sakawa is a refined court version of the boat songs and also refers to a game in which the players recite poetry in spontaneous rhymes.
In the court versions of the boat song, the crudity of language was removed.
In the Sakawa, the verses would begin with the word "Sakawa". It is also less spontaneous in that the singers merely sing words called to them by the versifiers. Players would sometimes assume the part of characters from well-known episodes of literary works and play out the scene, not necessarily keeping close to the details of the original. Each boat would represent a particular character and would only play the part of that one character. A true contest of sparkling wit, versifiers needed to have good knowledge of literature in order to put the idiosynchracies of individual character to good use in livening up the impromptu dialogue. |
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